By Khuong Phan

When my mom and stepdad moved in together things really began to change. For starters, Mom was alight in a way I hadn’t seen in several years. She smiled more and moved rather easily and weightlessly around the house.

Besides the obvious altering of moods, differences began sprouting elsewhere — most notably during dinner.

Black beans began appearing in my bowls of white rice. The sizzle and spatter of hot oil on the stove delivered not only egg rolls and crab rangoons, but also sweet plantains and crisped yucca. Goi Xoai (green mango salad) commingled on the plate with Bistec de Palomilla (pan-fried steak).

I was really happy when Mom met Jose, but the true winner in the holy union of Vietnamese lady meets Cuban fellow — let’s be honest — has been my stomach.

In addition to sharing the commonalities of being people who fled a Communist country via boat, and having national cuisines that feature the flavors of lime, peppers and cilantro, both Mom and Jose just so happen to celebrate Christmas on December 24th, and not 25th. Growing up, my family’s aversion to early rising mandated that presents be opened at the stroke of midnight on December 25, and it turns out Cubans traditionally begin their celebration at midnight also. Who knew these kids were so made for each other, huh?

The Christmas Eve party in my house is a huge deal, and is, in its own small way, a great annual culinary summit of East meets West. Joining Mom and Aunt Cuc in the kitchen as they wrap Goi Cuon (spring rolls) and stir Ca Ri Ga (chicken curry) are Aunts Vivian and Nenita who help press the tostones (fried green plantains). Swirling in the air is a cacophony of Viet-Spanglish as they talk to one another.

The real highlight of the evening is when our neighbor, Manuelo, brings over a great, big piece of Lechon (slow-roasted pork) for us to devour. (The most prized part of pork is by far the crispy skin, or Chicharron.)

With dinner over and my belly full, I usually head outside to enjoy the South Florida air and split a fat cigar with Uncle Carlos. It’s the perfect way to end a perfect meal.

I won’t be heading home for this Christmas, and will instead share it with my fiancée in Brooklyn. Though I won’t be migrating South, I’ll try my best to bring a little taste of home to roost in my kitchen in Greenpoint.

Below is a recipe for one of my favorite holiday dishes courtesy of Chef Douglas Rodriguez of Philadelphia’s Alma de Cuba, one of the jewels in the STARR Restaurants portfolio. Give it a shot; I think you’ll love it, too.

For those who celebrate, Merry Christmas and see you in the New Year!

LECHON (ROASTED PORK)

MARINADE

1/2 cup chopped white onion

1/4 cup distilled vinegar

1/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves

8 cloves garlic

3 bay leaves

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons salt

Pepper to taste

4 cups water

5 pounds boneless pork butt, trimmed of excess fat

Place all the marinade ingredients except the water in a food processor or blender. With the motor running, add the water gradually to form a puree.

Place the pork in a large oven proof dish or nonreactive pan and pour the marinade over the pork. Cover, and marinade in the refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight. Turn the pork occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees

Place the pork and marinade in the oven and bake until the pork is very tender and almost falling apart, about 3 hours. Remove the pork and let cool slightly. Using 2 forks, shred the pork.

YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

What I’m:

Eating: Cuban sandwich

Drinking: ‘33’ Lager

Reading: Knives at Dawn by Andrew Friedman

Watching: National Lampoons Christmas Vacation

Listening to: Sufjan Stevens’ Songs for Christmas