By Khuong Phan

When my mom and stepdad moved in together things really began to change. For starters, Mom was alight in a way I hadn’t seen in several years. She smiled more and moved rather easily and weightlessly around the house.

Besides the obvious altering of moods, differences began sprouting elsewhere — most notably during dinner.

Black beans began appearing in my bowls of white rice. The sizzle and spatter of hot oil on the stove delivered not only egg rolls and crab rangoons, but also sweet plantains and crisped yucca. Goi Xoai (green mango salad) commingled on the plate with Bistec de Palomilla (pan-fried steak).

I was really happy when Mom met Jose, but the true winner in the holy union of Vietnamese lady meets Cuban fellow — let’s be honest — has been my stomach.

In addition to sharing the commonalities of being people who fled a Communist country via boat, and having national cuisines that feature the flavors of lime, peppers and cilantro, both Mom and Jose just so happen to celebrate Christmas on December 24th, and not 25th. Growing up, my family’s aversion to early rising mandated that presents be opened at the stroke of midnight on December 25, and it turns out Cubans traditionally begin their celebration at midnight also. Who knew these kids were so made for each other, huh?

The Christmas Eve party in my house is a huge deal, and is, in its own small way, a great annual culinary summit of East meets West. Joining Mom and Aunt Cuc in the kitchen as they wrap Goi Cuon (spring rolls) and stir Ca Ri Ga (chicken curry) are Aunts Vivian and Nenita who help press the tostones (fried green plantains). Swirling in the air is a cacophony of Viet-Spanglish as they talk to one another.

The real highlight of the evening is when our neighbor, Manuelo, brings over a great, big piece of Lechon (slow-roasted pork) for us to devour. (The most prized part of pork is by far the crispy skin, or Chicharron.)

With dinner over and my belly full, I usually head outside to enjoy the South Florida air and split a fat cigar with Uncle Carlos. It’s the perfect way to end a perfect meal.

I won’t be heading home for this Christmas, and will instead share it with my fiancée in Brooklyn. Though I won’t be migrating South, I’ll try my best to bring a little taste of home to roost in my kitchen in Greenpoint.

Below is a recipe for one of my favorite holiday dishes courtesy of Chef Douglas Rodriguez of Philadelphia’s Alma de Cuba, one of the jewels in the STARR Restaurants portfolio. Give it a shot; I think you’ll love it, too.

For those who celebrate, Merry Christmas and see you in the New Year!

LECHON (ROASTED PORK)

MARINADE

1/2 cup chopped white onion

1/4 cup distilled vinegar

1/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves

8 cloves garlic

3 bay leaves

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons salt

Pepper to taste

4 cups water

5 pounds boneless pork butt, trimmed of excess fat

Place all the marinade ingredients except the water in a food processor or blender. With the motor running, add the water gradually to form a puree.

Place the pork in a large oven proof dish or nonreactive pan and pour the marinade over the pork. Cover, and marinade in the refrigerator for 12 hours, or overnight. Turn the pork occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees

Place the pork and marinade in the oven and bake until the pork is very tender and almost falling apart, about 3 hours. Remove the pork and let cool slightly. Using 2 forks, shred the pork.

YIELD: 8 TO 10 SERVINGS

What I’m:

Eating: Cuban sandwich

Drinking: ‘33’ Lager

Reading: Knives at Dawn by Andrew Friedman

Watching: National Lampoons Christmas Vacation

Listening to: Sufjan Stevens’ Songs for Christmas

By Jamie Rudolph

As we approach the New Year, we're faced with the task of reflecting on the past year and also looking forward to make resolutions for improving our lives in the year ahead.  I was recently asked by my colleagues to describe my most memorable meal of 2009, which was a pretty difficult task considering all of the amazing meals I have had. From a set menu served family-style in the private dining room at BLT Steak NYC for my Grandmother’s 90^th, to tasting some of Mathieu Palombino’s very first pies to hit Manhattan with the opening of his second Motorino, and trying the trial run of a “dish for two” at Gotham Bar and Grill – a first in the restaurant’s 25 years, how could I choose just one?

Amazing food combined with the greatest moments make the best meals.  My most memorable meal of 2009 was last January in Alta, Utah, when my family and I made the annual voyage to the mountains out west.  It’s a meal, or I should say a stretch of meals, that tend to stand out every year.  We stay (and eat) at the Wildcat Chalet, an inn that sits at the base of the mountain just a catwalk away from the ski lift.

As amazing as the snow and ski conditions are, the true reward is the meal following an exhilarating day on the slopes.  On this particular snowy January evening, we skiers shuffled in to the Wildcat, peeled off our snow-covered layers and were welcomed by caretaker and chef extraordinaire, Bob. He was already busy in the kitchen, squeezing limes for fresh margaritas, and his homemade salsa was waiting on the table. Mini pork and black bean tortas emerged soon after, a necessary supplement to tie us over until dinner.

We sat around the fire, watched and listened as pieces of the meal came together and the pungent smells from the kitchen permeated through the house.  Taking in the food through all of our senses added to the experience. 

The ideal meal after a full day of skiing went something like this:  We sat down around the table to fresh-baked sourdough bread and a crisp white wine. To start, we had a beet and farro salad with Stilton cheese and walnuts in a light citrus-balsamic vinaigrette.  Next up was confit quail legs, pan-seared to create a perfectly crispy skin and finished with an apple fennel chutney.  The main course was a homemade pappardelle pasta with large shrimp, scallops and fresh herbs.  The meal ended with vanilla poached pears, reduced in a pear brandy.

I have Chef Bob to thank for expanding my palate over the years.  As a kid, he challenged me to try just a few bites of salad at the start of each meal – a dish I would otherwise refuse (I was once a very selective eater).  With every visit, Bob pushed my boundaries, introducing me to new ingredients, flavors and preparations.

Unlike many people’s New Year’s resolutions, I will not be cutting back my food intake, but instead eating more, trying more, learning more.

What I’m:

Eating: Latkes with apple sauce

Drinking: Vodka Gimlet

Reading: New York Magazine

Watching: Football

Listening to: Kid Cudi

By Katie Blocher

After searching three out of five of the boroughs (sorry Staten Island and the Bronx) for the perfect place to live I have realized that New York apartment hunting is truly a double-edged sword.  Yes, there is a surplus of available apartments and real estate agents ready to open doors at your beck and call, but by the same token there are so many options that you could literally look at apartments forever and never make a decision.  

Of course deciding on an apartment all comes down to your own personal priorities and agenda.  For me, the kitchen is first and foremost.  Right now, I live in a studio uptown where my bed is less than five feet from my kitchen counters and my “office” is directly across from that.  It’s been fine for the past two-plus years, but as my life continues to revolve around food, restaurants and chefs I have vowed to find a new space in 2010 that reflects the house I grew up in and the home I want to build.

Growing up, the kitchen was always the center of my family’s home.  My fondest memories sprout from watching my dad fry eggs on Sunday mornings and helping my mom roll out sugar cookies during the holidays.  On Thanksgiving, we have the whole family over with food sprawling across every inch of the counter tops; on Christmas Eve we start drinking beer at 11am and shuck raw oysters all day long; and on January 1st we ring in the New Year feasting on Maryland crab cakes. 

Now I’m living and working in a place where I am constantly inspired by the best chefs and restaurants this country has to offer.  I see people like Michael White become the number-one Italian chef in the country and am there when he creates new menus and recipes.   Thanks to The Mermaid Oyster Bar I have tasted nearly 16 different types of oysters and can’t wait for Christmas Eve to brag to my family.  Even a mobile food concept, The Taco Truck, has become part of my life and inspired me to think about the ingredients I cook with.   I carry around Bon Appétit in my purse and The New York Times Dining Section is my Bible.

After looking at dozens of apartments, most of which were completely disappointing, I am happy to say that I have finally found my New York home — and the kitchen is perfect.  It opens up to the living room, has plenty of counter space and an island for friends to belly up to while I cook.  There’s ample space for a dining room table and windows aligning the kitchen walls.  Alright, so there’s no dishwasher, but come on, it is New York City. 

What I’m:

Eating: Rosemary Pork Loin with roasted fingerlings

Drinking: Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale

Reading: Food Network Magazine Christmas Cookie Guide

Watching: Top Chef Finale

Listening to: Hanson Holiday