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By Valerie Zweig
We’ve waxed poetic before about oysters on this blog, the briny bivalves that many of us Bullfrogs rank amongst our favorite shellfish. As such, we jumped at the chance to accompany Mermaid Inn Chef Laurence Edelman and owner Danny Abrams on a field trip to learn about oysters, from bed to table.
Bright and early one morning, we (along with five of our friends) got into an awesome Sprinter van and settled in for the ride out to Widow’s Hole Oyster Farm in Greenport, New York, on Long Island’s North Fork. Headed up by oyster mavens Mike and Isabelle Osinski, the farm supplies many of New York City’s top seafood restaurants, including BLT Fish, Le Bernardin, Gramercy Tavern and The Mermaid Inn.
Mike and Isabel, who fell into oyster farming about 10 years, are completely self-taught. They started with just a few cages and now, seven years later, they will harvest over 250,000 oysters in their 5-acre radius.
Mike hauling oysters
We jumped on the boat and Mike motored us out to examine cages that had been housing the growing oysters for approximately 18 months. We hooked the winch to the cages and hauled them on board and Mike spilled the bivalves onto a table. Fellow Bullfrog Katie and I gloved up and started sorting, discarding the dead oysters and selecting the ones that were big enough to bring to the restaurants (all under Mike’s direction, of course). We got back to shore and helped count the oysters into the bags that Mike and Isabel would deliver to their clients the next day.
Val and Katie sorting oysters on the boat
Did I mention food? We hopped off the boat and Chef Laurence was cooking up a feast (see picture)! Amidst delicious wines from Lenz Winery and VINe, a great wine bar out in Greenport, we dined on bursting grilled sausages, salt and pepper ruby red shrimp, grilled lobster tails and asparagus with aioli, a fiery quinoa and a capricci pasta salad with tomatoes and eggplant. And how could I forget oysters? We ate TONS of them—grilled and topped with a brightly herbaceous salsa verde and raw with a squeeze of lemon and hint of sea water.
Chef Laurence Manning the Grill
Katie and I even practiced shucking (although we couldn’t quite get the hang of shucking the “French” way – opening through the side – we preferred opening through the hinge at the back of the oyster).
Valerie shucking oysters
This was an incredible experience and we left amidst promises (alright, us begging) to return to help Mike and Isabel work the oyster harvest again soon!
Some things we learned about oysters
· Rate of flow x density of algae = growth of oysters
· Oysters are a natural water filter: one adult oyster can clean between 20-30 gallons of water a day
· The cages also act an artificial reef , providing habitat for baby local fish including bluefish, striped bass and even dogfish
· Click here to learn about movements to restore Manhattan as the ‘Big Oyster’ and bring the beds back to the city.
What I’m...
Eating: Oysters at The Mermaid Inn and Marea
Drinking: the sexy cocktails at new FiDi restaurant SHO Shaun Hergatt [SHO Passion Martini: Passion fruit puree, rum and chili]
Listening to: Eddie Money radio on Pandora.com
Reading: Free Food for Millionaires by Min Jin Lee
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