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By: Evyn Block
Thanksgiving is upon us- and I get the sense that everyone in our office is either planning what to cook, or dreaming about what they will be eating on the day. So much of what we identify with Thanksgiving revolves around the food that we eat. But of course it’s also hearing the stories of who first came up with a certain recipe, which dishes have been passed down, and which ones have been reinvented. And everyone picking their personal favorite. It’s the stories behind the food that make it all so special.
Thanksgiving is, at root, a secular holiday. Its all about families, and how you spend the day says a lot about your own. For me, the holiday has always been an homage to my father’s German family. Growing up, we would bundle into an old 1970’s Volkswagon Beetle and drive from urban Chicago out to our grandparents’ house in rural Wisconsin. In order to maximize our anticipation and appreciation of the mammoth meal to come, our father would strictly prohibit any food consumption for the entire day...which led to a very long car ride through hours of endless cornfields.
There were always five pies—- two apple, two pumpkin, one lemon meringue—still cooling when we arrived. The sight of the pies, and our lovely grandmother stepping out to the driveway to greet us, made the wait seem suddenly worthwhile. The rest was pretty traditional: the men drank PBR and Schlitz watching football, the women cooked or helped set the table. The kids snuck whatever pre-meal scraps they could find.
The food on the table reflected who our grandparents were, and who they wanted to be—a hybrid of German family traditions and kitschy 1950’s and 60’s Americana. Some things kept from their European past along with those borrowed from the Joneses next door. The German touches were intense dishes like spinach salad with hot vinegar bacon dressing, made with lots of bacon fat drippings, sugar-- and so much vinegar your eyes watered. We loved it. We had pickled vegetables and slaws, we had raw spring onions and radishes, dipped in crystal salt wells and eaten raw. Stuffing wasn’t called stuffing, it was called “Dressing”, and it was good.
After my grandmother passed away, the baton (or gravy ladle) passed to my sister, who had to make some tough decisions- what traditions stayed, which ones were going to be phased out. And the result was uniformly popular. The stars, (the turkey, dressing, potatoes and homemade gravy, the spinach salad and full range of pies) all stayed in the picture. The 1950’s dishes, (the green bean casserole with canned French onion, tuna salad casserole with mayo and canned peas, the mini marshmallow laden jello desserts) were all were nixed. Goodbye, bad 50’s food, we salute you. You will not be missed. And there are new favorites, like my mother’s sweet potatoes with caramelized apples and homemade caramel.
I’ve attached some of our favorite family recipes here, and a few photos. Families grow, families get smaller, locations change, but we can always keep a bit of the past that we hold dear through our dishes. It’s our living memory.
Gran's Spinach Salad with Hot Bacon Dressing:
5 slices of bacon cut up
3 Tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 Tablespoons lemon juice
3 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoons salt
dash of pepper
1/2 cup sliced green onion
2 hard cooked eggs - chopped
1 10oz. pkg. torn fresh spinach
Fry bacon until crisp. Remove bacon from pan. Leave 2 Tbsp. bacon drippings in the pan. Add vinegar, lemon juice, sugar, salt and pepper. Cook about 1 minute. Pour over spinach in a large bowl. Add bacon, onions, and egg. Mix until well coated.
Makes 6 servings.
Gran's "Poultry Dressing" i.e., "stuffing"
3 bags of unseasoned bread cubes (Pepperidge Farm)
3 cups chopped celery
2 large onions chopped
1 lb. seasoned bulk pork sausage (Jones)
3 heaping teaspoons poultry seasoning
3-4 heaping teaspoons salt
Boil neck and gizzards to make broth (2 cups)
Saute onion in 4-5 Tbsp. of butter
Moisten the bread cubes with broth using your hands (use a big bowl, its messy!)
Add all the other ingredients (including the raw bulk pork sausage) and mix well with your hands. (it gets even messier).
When the stuffing is cooking (325-350 for about an hour) the bulk pork sausage cooks as well, and the pork fat gets soaked into the bread cubes and helps to cook the celery.
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