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As the summer heat becomes more stifling than a Darren Aronofsky film, let’s take a moment to reflect on tomato season—the only reason we aren’t summering south of the equator!
The tomato is a storied fruit. Arguably originating in the highlands of western South America, it weaved its way through the Spanish colonies eventually arriving in Italy and France where it served as a culinary symbol for the French Revolution.
Long considered to be a powerful toxin, tomatoes didn’t fully take hold in Western diets until the early 19th century. In an effort to prove their safety (as a dubious legend contends), Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson invited more than 2,000 spectators to watch as he consumed an entire basket of tomatoes in front of a Salem, New Jersey, courthouse in 1820.
The fear of tomatoes eventually died out, replaced by a brief but maniacal focus on their alleged ability to treat diarrhea, dyspepsia and even cholera. Today the medicinal qualities of the fruit (largely a product of their natural antioxidant, lycopene) are overshadowed by their abundant culinary powers. There is seldom a chef who doesn’t acknowledge the beauty of a flawlessly ripened heirloom tomato (an open-pollinated, non-industrial cultivar), and the fruits now populate top menus the world over.
But is it a fruit or a vegetable?
Both! Much like a berry, a tomato is the ovary and seeds of a flowering plant, so in terms of its botanical status it is considered a fruit. However, owing to a U.S. Supreme Court case in 1893 that dealt with a law imposing a tariff on vegetables but not fruits, the tomato now holds a vegetable classification according to the USDA.
Leave it to these masters to do justice to the tomato’s arduous battle for legitimacy:
The Risotto Pomodoro at A Voce is made with heirloom tomato, pesto and pecorino.
Enjoy Baked Prawns with roast tomato, couscous and fennel at Dani.
At Dona, Pan Roast Shetland Cod is served with little neck clams, spicy italian sausage, broccoli rape and a tomato fondue.
For those of us who don’t have the time (or talent) to make our own sauces, an upscale jarred product can be an excellent option. Donatella Arpaia’s preservative and sugar-free Essential Tomato Sauce is the only fresh jarred tomato sauce available anywhere, made with the finest artisanal ingredients.
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